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Suzy's Trip to India's Tea Capital

Posted in Suzy's Tea Travels, Tales From Our Tea Buyers.

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After an incredible four weeks touring the enchanting tea gardens of Assam I've made it to what is the tea capital of India - Kolkata (Calcutta).

Since the very first tea plantation in Assam was established in 1835, Kolkata has been the most important administration centre for tea, later housing the auction and port where tea was exported to the UK on famous clipper ships. Today Kolkata remains the largest tea auction centre in the world and evidence of this city’s history and love of tea is all around.

Though we love our tea in the UK and drink on average 8 cups a day, the Kolkatans give us a run for our money. Tea culture and tea drinking here is alive with ritual and ‘chai’ shops are on every street corner - I simply had to take part. Tea making here, just like at home, is an art and crowds gather as the tea is being prepared. You can always tell a good chai shop by the 40 people waiting on the street in anticipation for their cuppa!

Chai shop owners buy the smaller grades of tea or the 'dust' types because they make super strong and thick liquors. The tea is wrapped in muslin cloth, mixed with cardamom and other masalas (spices), tied to form a giant tea bag, then placed in a pan of steaming hot milk and left to ‘cook’. Only when the liquor is a deep reddish-gold and the sweet smell of cardamom is present is it ready. Ritual pouring of the thick milky tea from one pan to another must take place to cool and ensure equal balance of flavour. Then indiscriminate amounts of sugar are added before being served up in a small earthen pot known as a khulur - just like the ones above.

The result? The sweetest, yet most refreshing pick-me-up that really is a must to try if you traverse these streets.

Tea shops on every corner

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